Monday, 30 June 2008
Saturday, 28 June 2008
Otranto to Bari
For some reason: maybe the pilotbook references were not good, or it felt too short a days passage ; but I chose not to stop at Brindisi, and to make further progress along the coast to Mola di Bari or Bari itself.
This was a mistake.
Shortly after we passed Brindisi, the sea became thick with "Sargasso"-like swirling regions full of vegetation, branches and complete trees floating. At first we were able to continue to motor around the clusters, but the pollution became more and more dense. After an episode of the propeller smashing through a tree trunk, and the rudder becoming entangled in branches, it was clear that we could motor no longer. Once we had cut ourselves free, and checked that the prop had suffered no apparent damage, we continued, slowly, under sail in light airs. This continued for around four hours, in which we covered no more than 6 miles. Eventually the forest began to clear, and we were able to motor, with careful bow lookout, at a couple of knots.
As we had now lost a lot of time, night was drawing near. The prospect of motoring at night through forest-soup was unattractive, so I targetted one of my alternate planned ports at Villanova di Ostuni.
This was another mistake.
The port was small and full of small craft, with obviously no room for us. There was no response to VHF enquiries. We could not safely moor inside, and we could not safely continue. I chose to anchor in the narrow inlet Cala St Maria Rita directly to the east of the port. The conditions were calm, with calm weather forecast as we settled down for the night. Unfortunately around 01:30 am a heavy swell began to roll into the unprotected inlet. We rolled beam to beam all night to the sound of waves breaking on the rocks a few yards each side of us.
At first light we made our escape.
This was a mistake.
Shortly after we passed Brindisi, the sea became thick with "Sargasso"-like swirling regions full of vegetation, branches and complete trees floating. At first we were able to continue to motor around the clusters, but the pollution became more and more dense. After an episode of the propeller smashing through a tree trunk, and the rudder becoming entangled in branches, it was clear that we could motor no longer. Once we had cut ourselves free, and checked that the prop had suffered no apparent damage, we continued, slowly, under sail in light airs. This continued for around four hours, in which we covered no more than 6 miles. Eventually the forest began to clear, and we were able to motor, with careful bow lookout, at a couple of knots.
As we had now lost a lot of time, night was drawing near. The prospect of motoring at night through forest-soup was unattractive, so I targetted one of my alternate planned ports at Villanova di Ostuni.
This was another mistake.
The port was small and full of small craft, with obviously no room for us. There was no response to VHF enquiries. We could not safely moor inside, and we could not safely continue. I chose to anchor in the narrow inlet Cala St Maria Rita directly to the east of the port. The conditions were calm, with calm weather forecast as we settled down for the night. Unfortunately around 01:30 am a heavy swell began to roll into the unprotected inlet. We rolled beam to beam all night to the sound of waves breaking on the rocks a few yards each side of us.
At first light we made our escape.
Friday, 27 June 2008
Corfu to Otranto
It was a welcome change to make a daytime crossing. Most of our recent crossings have been too long to risk a morning departure, and we have departed as evening fell.
On this occasion, we slid out of Ag Georgiou on a calm and misty morning, and navigated the rocky coastline with just the odd returning fishing boat for company.
As we passed the small Greek Island of Otonoi (last stop before Italy) we investigated the small harbour for future refence before continuing the passage.
The large mobile phone mast on the NW tip of the island gave an excellent Italian TIM mobile signal across the strait of Otranto until a direct Italian signal was available.
The crossing to Otranto was short (45nm) and straitforward, but required a careful watch for the heavy commercial traffic entering and leaving the Adriatic through the straits. It was at this point that I decided to invest in an AIS!
On arrival the port of Otranto was very attractive, but the mooring pontoons behind Molo St Nicola were all full. We fueled at the jetty, and anchored in the outer harbour, just off the beach to the NW. It was a beautiful setting, and a pleasant night, though the anchorage would have been very exposed to easterleys.
Early in the morning we set sail north.
On this occasion, we slid out of Ag Georgiou on a calm and misty morning, and navigated the rocky coastline with just the odd returning fishing boat for company.
As we passed the small Greek Island of Otonoi (last stop before Italy) we investigated the small harbour for future refence before continuing the passage.
The large mobile phone mast on the NW tip of the island gave an excellent Italian TIM mobile signal across the strait of Otranto until a direct Italian signal was available.
The crossing to Otranto was short (45nm) and straitforward, but required a careful watch for the heavy commercial traffic entering and leaving the Adriatic through the straits. It was at this point that I decided to invest in an AIS!
On arrival the port of Otranto was very attractive, but the mooring pontoons behind Molo St Nicola were all full. We fueled at the jetty, and anchored in the outer harbour, just off the beach to the NW. It was a beautiful setting, and a pleasant night, though the anchorage would have been very exposed to easterleys.
Early in the morning we set sail north.
Wednesday, 25 June 2008
Crotone to Corfu
Crossing the Ionian
After a week in port waiting for our replacement windlass motor, we were finally fixed and shipshape by late afternoon.
Without delay we made our final preparations and slipped out of harbour into the evening light.
We motored eastwards through calm waters, as the sun set behind the Calabrese mountains behind us. It felt good to be back at sea, and to be pursuing a new adventure as we slowly clocked up the miles towards Greece.
Once we had left behind the coastal fishing boats the night was long and dark. There was little shipping, and just the phosphorescence of the wake behind us to break the monotonous calm.
I went below to sleep, leaving Maria with a midnight watch. Before long Maria's calls woke me and I emerged in the cockpit to find the lights of a large fish processing vessel on our tail, that had been shadowing us for half an hour.
Who was she? Why was she following us - out of interest, for company in this empty expanse of sea, or just a mercenary concern that we might be fishing their (or a better) patch? Eventuall she accelerated past us and disppeared into the distance.
As usual , I took the early hours watch through to the dawn. On this occasion the cool grey waters yielded no display of dolphins or other welcoming friends. After the baking heat of Crotone, the freshening breeze was noticeably cooler than was had experienced over the previous months.
As the morning progressed the first Greek Islands appeared on the horizon, and we inched our way towards them.
After a week in port waiting for our replacement windlass motor, we were finally fixed and shipshape by late afternoon.
Without delay we made our final preparations and slipped out of harbour into the evening light.
We motored eastwards through calm waters, as the sun set behind the Calabrese mountains behind us. It felt good to be back at sea, and to be pursuing a new adventure as we slowly clocked up the miles towards Greece.
Once we had left behind the coastal fishing boats the night was long and dark. There was little shipping, and just the phosphorescence of the wake behind us to break the monotonous calm.
I went below to sleep, leaving Maria with a midnight watch. Before long Maria's calls woke me and I emerged in the cockpit to find the lights of a large fish processing vessel on our tail, that had been shadowing us for half an hour.
Who was she? Why was she following us - out of interest, for company in this empty expanse of sea, or just a mercenary concern that we might be fishing their (or a better) patch? Eventuall she accelerated past us and disppeared into the distance.
As usual , I took the early hours watch through to the dawn. On this occasion the cool grey waters yielded no display of dolphins or other welcoming friends. After the baking heat of Crotone, the freshening breeze was noticeably cooler than was had experienced over the previous months.
As the morning progressed the first Greek Islands appeared on the horizon, and we inched our way towards them.
Thursday, 19 June 2008
Roccela Ionica to Crotone
We left Roccela at first light, on the first calm morning, in company with a French cruising club who were destined for the Greek Islands. It made an unsual site for these waters to see more than a dozen yachts in company set sail under spinnaker.
The morning and early afternoon provided gentle sailing, alternating between motorsail and sail as the wind varied between 3 and 6 knots.
The morning and early afternoon provided gentle sailing, alternating between motorsail and sail as the wind varied between 3 and 6 knots.
Tuesday, 17 June 2008
Mt Etna to Roccela Ionica
We suffered a rolly night anchored off Taormina, and were happy to make an early start to head north back under the toes of Italy.
In clear skies, with a shroud of vulanic fumes, Etna was a majestic sight over our transom as we motored north.
The early day was a typical calm mixture of Force 1-3 patches, with alternating motoring, motor sailing, and sailing. A good breeze carried us through the late morning.
Throughout this coastline we had excellent mobile and broadband coverage. Maria spent much of the day completing month end invoicing for the business in her floating office. This is the life!
We began to come across other yachts on our or a reciprocal course around these southern shores. French, British, American, Belgian, Scandinavian, Austrian and other ensigns passed throught the day. In common with our experiences over the period, the one nationality not to be found in these Italian waters were Italians.
Monday, 16 June 2008
Bagnara Calabria to Mt Etna
Today we brave the Straits of Messina.
With mythical stories of Scylla and Charybdis, and ships that disappeared without trace; and with real stories of congested waters and tidal bores, we set sail into legend.
In reality, we enjoyed a relaxed day sailing with no greater hazards than a typical summmer day on the Solent.
The morning began with calm sun, as we motored into the straits, past the long-nosed tuna fishing boats. We kept a close watch for the fast moving shipping and ferries, as the wind began freshen up. By midday we were broad reaching in string force 5, and slapping our way through the confused short chop that had developed through the channel. Areas of standing waves and tidal whirlpools were evident, but nothing more that we had experienced in the past.
With mythical stories of Scylla and Charybdis, and ships that disappeared without trace; and with real stories of congested waters and tidal bores, we set sail into legend.
In reality, we enjoyed a relaxed day sailing with no greater hazards than a typical summmer day on the Solent.
The morning began with calm sun, as we motored into the straits, past the long-nosed tuna fishing boats. We kept a close watch for the fast moving shipping and ferries, as the wind began freshen up. By midday we were broad reaching in string force 5, and slapping our way through the confused short chop that had developed through the channel. Areas of standing waves and tidal whirlpools were evident, but nothing more that we had experienced in the past.
Sunday, 15 June 2008
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